Adventure in Kiev - Part 6: Kissing Corpses

I began today by heading down into the intimidating Ukrainian Metro to head off to meet Yakov just south of downtown Kiev. For the record, they do not hand out subway maps like in London, though the system is not as extensive and complicated as London. It is made up of 3 lines that intersect at the center of town and radiate outward. This was the soviet way. Of course, there is no english printed anywhere either. However, thanks to the power of the iPhone, I was able to download a map, and use the homing beacon to place a pin where I was staying, so I felt I was at least heading off into the Ukrainian unknown equipted. Thankfully, I also had Yakov's mobile number in case of emergency.

I made my way to Arsenal'na. I arrived before Yakov, so I sat down on a curb and listened to "American Idiot" by Green Day as though I was feeling good about having sucessfully navigated the Soviet subway system, I was feeling about an out of place as I could be. I must not have looked that out of place however, as people came up to me and began asking me directions in Ukrainian. It must have been the headphones.

We walked through the streets and underground markets stopping briefly at a Video store. There you could buy any movie you might want: released on video or otherwise. Piracy is huge in the Ukraine, and many of the films currently in theaters were available for purchase already on DVD. Complete with commentary. . . (Explain that one to me. . .)

We made our way to a memorial to the famine victims of 1933. At that time, the Ukraine was resisting the pressures of Russia to join the Soviet Union, so Stalin's plan was to starve them into submission. He had their crops burned, and anyone trying to grow food shot. Simply hideous from our "enlightened modern perspective".


From there we made our way to a beautiful church Kiev Pecherska Lavra. It is famous for its beautiful gold onion domes, its monastary, and its devout Christian followers. It also has an extensive underground catacomb system full of martyrs and saints. Yakov and I entered the catacombs and followed along with the many people paying their respects to the saints. Many people would genuflect and kiss the glass caskets.

It felt both incredibly reverential and pagan at the same time. It was a strange custom to see from my American perspective, but it was explained to me that here in these catacombs among the saints, one had a direct communication link to God.