Thursday, December 29, 2011

Bamberg


For our last day in Germany, we made a train trip to a nearby town of Bamberg. We'd seen it on a travel program called "The Thirsty Traveler", where they went to visit this brewery where they made, Rauchbier (Smoked Beer). They smoke the barley, and then make beer from it.





We got up had a good breakfast, then walked over to the train station to catch the train for the easy 40 minute journey.








We arrived at the station, which is about a 15 minute walk from the center of town. To our surprise, they also were having a very nice lowkey Christmas market.






Tony was much happier here as it felt more craftsy, and was not nearly as crowded as the market in Nuremberg.









The weather was sunny and warmer, and it was a beautiful December day.







Bamberg is built up around a navigable river, and I'm assuming was an important point of trade.





Perched on the highest point in town, Bamberg Cathedral built around 1010 was a favorite church of Pope Clement II, who was the local bishop before becoming Pope.







After his death, his body was returned to Bamberg, and is the only Pope buried outside of Italy and France.



Henry II and his wife Empress Cunigunde, who founded the church are buried in the cathedral in an elaborate sarcophagus which took 15 years to sculpt.



There is a famous statue in Bamberg Cathedral. It is called the "Bamberger Reiter" (Bamberg Rider). It is unknown who the rider is supposed to be, but this image was taken by the Nazis and used as a propaganda symbol representing German perfection looking for new lands to conquer.





Another important art piece in the Cathedral is a wood nativity scene carved by the famous artist Viet Stoss. He carved it when he was 80 years old during the 1500's.




We walked the square by the cathedral which also houses the City Hall and some other buildings also dating back 1000 years.









The town is a real charmer. I can't imagine anyone not liking this place.
































Eventually, we made our way to a brewpub called Aecht Schlenkerla, which is famous for making the Rauchbier.



Notice what appears to be a Jewish star on their sign. This symbol actually is the "Brewer's Star". A symbol bringing together the triangular symbols for fire and water, which are used in the process of brewing beer.



It was a darker beer. Not as thick as a stout, but medium bodied and full flavored. It tasted a lot of smoke. Tony felt it tasted a bit like he was drinking a campfire.










Of course I bought a bottle to bring home.





We also saw a couple different versions of Gluhwein called "Feuerzangenbowle" (flaming fire tongs punch). One where they pour burning schnapps into a large cauldron of gluhwein. . .









And one where they pour schnapps over a sugar cube and set it on fire.









Tony passed on the flaming gluhwein and instead got a glass of some delicious Hot Apple Cider.






We wandered around the town for the afternoon, just enjoying the Christmas market and all the people out taking in the sunshine.





















We stopped at a bakery and bought a loaf of "Stohlen", a traditional German Christmas bread.









I learned that Stohlen is baked symbolically in the shape of the baby Jesus wrapped in cloth. So when you are eating Stohlen, you are symbolically eating. . . hmm. . .



Before long, it was starting to get dark, and it was time to head back to Nuremberg. That evening I finally got to have Sauerbraten, a pot roast made with vinegar, which I'd been craving the whole trip. Delicious, but a bit of an acquired taste.





And of course a piece of Apfel Strudel. What trip to Germany would be complete without it.






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