Tuesday, December 27, 2011

Nuremberg - The Christkindlesmarkt


Tony and I had been hearing about these amazing Christmas Markets in Germany ever since we'd come to London. In fact there are many "German" Christmas Markets held in England celebrating the fact that the Germans know how to throw a Christmas Market.







One of the largest markets is in Nuremberg, this December, we made plans to visit Nuremberg and see an authentic one for ourselves.








Nuremberg is a beautiful city, and the Christmas markets in it (and there are several) are huge. There is the main, Chriskindlesmarkt, also the Kindersmarkt, and an International City Partners Market. We wandered around seeing all of them.





Little wooden stands open their doors and look like little jewelry boxes full of gold and glass.








One fun quirky Christmas Decoration that we saw on sale everywhere were these little "Prune People". They are people made out of dried fruit. And they come in all different shapes and occupations. Okay, then. . .






Everywhere were wonderful Christmasy things to temp your wallet. We managed to keep our spending to one Nutcracker.





Though crowded, I found it a delight to walk around taking in the Christmas ambiance. Weekdays are quieter than weekends, and some of the vendors aren't open during the week.




Mornings are a good time to avoid crowds too, but it comes to life at night when all the lights come on.










We wandered around looking at it several times during our stay enjoying it at varying times during the day.









Carolers and Christmas bands provide the perfect musical accompaniment to put you in the mood.







One can find traditional German Lebkuchen (gingerbread) Cookies everywhere. They are celebrated in all shapes and sizes from square cookies with nuts to round cookies dipped in chocolate. Some are shaped like men or horses.







Some are decorated much like the traditional Oktoberfest cookies with writing on them and hung on strings so you can wear them around your neck.





We tried some from the stands, but found them to be a bit dry and tasteless. We ultimately went to a recommended bakery called "Lebkuchen Schmidt" where we found some really excellent tasty Lebkuchens. Tip: Avoid the ones in the tourist booths, and go to a bakery if you want a really good cookie.







I also tried some of the fruit cake. Unfortunately, I didn't really care for it. Costco US still makes the best from my experience. Then my Dad using my Grandmother's recipe.




They also made these interesting sweets called Schneeball (snowball). They were slightly crunchy, and had marzipan in them as well as different nut type fillings and coatings.







In addition to some wonderful Macaroon cookies, we also tried these marshmallow sweets that were covered with chocolate. Many were flavored as well.







Freshly grilled Bratwurst can be smelled cooking everywhere. How could we resist?









We tried the traditional Nuremberg Bratwurst, which are these delicious small sausages served with mustard and kraut.










We just had a lovely time walking around eating and drinking the market in. The weather was coldish, but not ridiculously cold, and it was mostly dry. Tony wasn't wild about the crowds, but I just took it as part of the whole experience.








We enjoyed the Gluhwein which is everywhere. Tony isn't too fond of mulled wine, but eventually found a mulled cider that was to his liking.






We also liked the Eierpunsch, which is similar to Eggnog.






very rich and tasty.








I tried a really good mulled wine called Heidelbeer Gluhwein, which is made from blueberries. They serve the wein in fun souvenir cups that you place a deposit on. If you don't want to keep it, just return it to the counter, and they give you back your deposit.





You can occasionally find both here in the UK. I think I've even seen it back in the states. I'll have to look for the heidelwein in stores here next year.








The Nuremberg Christmas Angel is the predominant symbol of the market. You will find her everywhere.










A woman dressed as the angel officially opens the market from a balcony overlooking the square, on the last weekend of November.




Lest one forgets the Christian reason for the season, you will also find many beautiful manger scenes.

The Germans really know how to do Christmas right. I guess this is why their Weihnachtsmarkt are emulated throughout the world.

London Thanksgiving 2011

After a disappointing Thanksgiving last year, I planned a return to trip on Thanksgiving Day to "The Diner", as though their dinner 2 years ago was mediocre, it had never promised to be a great Thanksgiving Dinner the way I'd been led to expect from BoDean's BBQ.




Being hit with a bit of homesickness that afternoon at work (it isn't a holiday here in London), I found a website broadcasting the Macy's Day Parade online. I'd forgotten how big that parade appears with all those balloons floating through Times Square.


After work, I pedaled home and Tony and I walked up to "The Diner". Sadly, they were not offering even their mediocre Thanksgiving Dinner this year. However they did have a Turkey Burger with Sweet Potato Fries. "Two Burgers, please!". To their credit, it was a great burger and the fries were yummy. The best part of the evening was the wait staff wearing feathers and warpaint on their faces. I guess this is Indian revenge for the English settlers who would ultimately lead to their near genocide.

The Diner had a pumpkin shake for dessert, but that sounded a little dodgy. We hoped that the yogurt shop down the street still had their "Pumpkin Pie" yoghurt. Sadly, when we got there, they explained that they only had it in honor of Halloween. I didn't want to explain to them that though pumpkin pie is occasionally served at Halloween, it primary purpose is to be the dessert at Thanksgiving.



Despite a disappointing Thanksgiving Day, Tony, Mark, and I had planned to do a full-on Thanksgiving Dinner that Saturday. I broke out my last can of Trader Joe's Pumpkin, and made a pie.







I also was in charge of making the Green Bean Cassarole (we'd smuggled in a can of French Fried Onions back with us when we went to Louisiana last year).





Tony made the Cranberry relish from scratch using his favorite recipe. And also made a roasted garlic and cheese appetizer that we'd seen our new favorite British Cooking Diva, Lorraine Pascale make. Tony even made homemade bread for it.




Mark roasted the turkey, made his grandmother's stuffing, and some fabulous sweet potatoes with mini marshmallows on top.




After two years of mediocre Thanksgivings, it was great to finally have a real Thanksgiving Dinner with all the trimmings.

Return to Roma - La Dolce Vita


For our final day in Rome, we woke up late and had a leisurely morning. It was a stunningly beautiful and warm day, and we had brunch by the hotel pool.





I ordered pasta with an Amatraciana style sauce. Basically, it is a tomato and bacon sauce. Absolutely delicious.





The hotel brought us this beautiful little tray of desserts to eat. It was so nice to be able to sit outside in the sun with a clear blue sky and enjoy a relaxing brunch. I could get used to this. . .





We headed downtown to do some wandering and shopping. Rome is a fun city to just simply take in "La Dolce Vita".





We stopped in at a leather store for Mark to look at a Deer Skin Coat for his birthday present to himself. It was beautiful and he bought it.






We went to a recommended Gelato shop called, San Crispino, as part of our great gelato taste test. Tony tried the Fig gelato, while Mark had a gelato with crumbled crispy meringue in it. Both were very good.





We then wandered over to the famous Trevi Fountain, which was built in the 1700's to celebrate the reopening of one of the aqueducts feeding water to the city.






We each did the famous coin toss photo op.

Mark.











Kevin.







and Tony.

The story goes that if you toss a coin in the fountain, you will someday return to Rome. It obviously works, as here I am, back after 15 years.






We paused at the Spanish steps to take a break and enjoy the sun and scene. The fashion sense in this town is very good, and the fashion coat trend seemed to be the down puffer jacket. I'll have to pick one up when we get back to London.







Rome is definitely a fun place to go shopping for clothing. If we had a bunch more money, it would be fun to buy some new suits. Not that we have that many occasions to wear them.

Before long, it was time for gelato again, and we had to visit one of the more famous gelato stores, Giolitti's. It was completely rammed, but we got in line.





We each got a gelato, that I can only call MASSIVE. And it was delicious. I had my favorites, chocolate and pistachio with fresh whipped cream on top.





From there we wandered around the block to a coffee store, La Casa del Caffe, which is also one of the more famous coffee houses in Rome. They roast all of their own coffee here too.






I got a wonderful cup of espresso there.

Tony got a cup of Cioccolato Caldo, which is a sumptuously thick Hot Chocolate only served around this time of year. I didn't realize that you need to pay extra for a dollop of whipped cream on top, and you need to pay for that in advance at the till, so we didn't get it with whipped cream. Next time. .

Everywhere we looked, there were piles of Panettone breads all looking so pretty in their boxes. We already have one back at the apartment in London, otherwise, I think I would have had to find a way to bring one back with us.



Before we knew it, it was getting dark and we were back at the Pantheon, and we had to look inside again. Just an amazing building.




We decided to eat dinner on this square, and we found a small little pizzeria. We each ordered a pizza, though we might have gotten away with ordering less.







We did manage to eat it all, as there was no way we were going to be able to take it home with us. And it was terrific.



We waddled back to the hotel, where the bar manager greeted us on our last night in Rome with a new grappa for us to try.

By now, we had learned to appreciate it, so he was showing off the good stuff. And it was quite tasty. . . for grappa.



If you are thinking that we spent the entire day strolling, eating, and drinking, well, you are correct. In Italy, that's called "La Dolce Vita". . .