Wednesday, November 21, 2012

Istanbuls Underground Cistern

One of the more unique sites we visited in Istanbul is the recently renovated subterranean cistern.  It is a wonderfully atmospheric place to visit.















It was built and forgotten by the Byzantines.  It's construction made use of repurposed Roman columns from around Istanbul and held upwards of 27,000 gallons of water. 













It is probably most famous cinematically for its appearance in James Bond's, From Russia with Love, but all I could think of was the subterranean temple of Medusa from Clash of the Titans.


 There is even two Medusa heads hidden at the back of the Cistern supporting 2 smaller collumns.  Evidently, they needed to boost up two slightly shorter columns to match the others.










 




Sad to see a statue relegated to being a stepstool.


Monday, November 19, 2012

A Tale of Two Mosques

Probably the two main sites in Istanbul are Haggia Sofia and The Blue Mosque.  They sit opposite each other in the heart of the Old Town.  
No TV program can prepare you for Haggia Sofia, and we'd seen a lot of them in preparation for the trip.  
 You enter a corridor, and then emerge through these large doors into the main chamber.  It is astoundingly beautiful for a building over 1500 years old.
 We were visiting late afternoon, and the light coming through the western windows just made the gold paint glow. 

 It is amazing to think that this building began its life as a Church, but when subsequent civiliztions took over the area, rather than tearing down this church building, they were so taken with its grandeur that they converted it to their purposes, and made it into a mosque. 












Today it is a museum, and many of the original Christian paintings and murals, which were painted over by the Muslims have been uncovered for people to see.  It is amazing to see the blending of the Christian and the Muslim Art Styles, and how the basic vision of the original architect was adapted to serve both while still retaining his original concept.












No visit to Istanbul is complete without seeing this site.





Directly across the street is The Blue Mosque. 

 Though not as old as Haggia Sofia, it is also a magnificent mosque, and it is still in use for worship today. 
You can tour parts of the mosque between services, and services are called by singing voices from the six minarets five times a day.  
Nowadays, the voices are still live, but are projected from speakers in the minarets, but in the past, someone would have had to climb them and sing at the top of their voice.
The courtyard in front of the mosque is amazing and otherworldly.  It certainly felt the most foreign and fanciful of  any place I've visited in my travels.  It almost looks like something out of a Science Fiction film.













Inside, it is remarkably light and airy.  The pastel colors lift the spirit and pull ones eyes upwards to the beautiful dome overhead.






It is a truly remarkable site to see.  









 


 

The contrast of the cool blue light coming from outside and the warm incandescent lights hanging illuminating the interior made everything glow.


Istanbul - The Grand Bazaar

For our last trip of the year, Tony and I traveled to the city that rides the border between Asia and Europe - Istanbul, Turkey.  




For the first time, we added an Asian Visa to our passport stamp collection.  To enter Turkey, you have to purchase a 3 month Visa for 15 Euros.













From the airport, it was a 2 hour drive to the history center of Istanbul.  Everywhere we looked on the drive, one could see minarets pointing up towards the heaven.










The first stop after checking in at our hotel was the Grand Bazaar to do some shopping.















This mammoth shopping area is the precursor to our modern day shopping malls.
















 There is a wonderful exotic quality to it, and though many of the shops carry lots of goods aimed at tourists, it is still a great place to go shopping and hang out.































































There are a lot of shops also carrying highend silver and gold products.




 




 The purfumed aroma of spices and exotic scents fill the air.







































 


 










And of course there are plenty of places to buy a cup of Turkish Coffee, Baklava and Turkish Delight.





Ultimately, if you want the best deal in your shopping, you will need to walk about 100 yards east of the Grand Bazaar into the labyrinth of back streets and alleys where the locals do their shopping.  You will find the same merchandise for less than half what you would pay in the Grand Bazaar.







 

This is where I ended up buying my Turkish Coffee set.











Saturday, November 3, 2012

Kotor, Montenegro

We took a second  road trip.  This time south from Dubrovnik to the country of Montenegro. 

 When it was part of Yugoslavia, it was mostly deemed a urban workers country, but if you go past the fairly dreary towns, you reach a stunning countryside that looks somewhat like Germany or Switzerland. 








Beautiful mountains reach down to the water, and small villages cling to the shores at their base.










It had rained heavily the night before, so rivers flowing into the inland seas were bountiful.













 One river emerges out of an underground tunnel in the side of the mountain, flows under the highway bridge and then flows into the ocean.  Strange to see such a fast flowing river just coming out of the side of the hill









Here in this mix of fresh and salt water, Oyster farms are in abundance.  Though not a huge fan of oysters, the large number of farms made me want to try some.








It was morning, so after a couple hours of driving to get here, we stopped for a cup of "local" coffee, which is essentially Turkish Coffee. It was very strong and very good.  Again, you just didn't want to drink it all the way down to the last bit, or you would be in for a gritty surprise.

Our ultimate destination was the city of Kotor.  It is one of the best preserved Medieval Walled Cities on the Adriatic Sea.    

It has been a major port city, but Montenegro has been in decline since its secession from Yugoslavia in the 1980's.
The entrance dates back to the 14th and 15th century, but was updated under Tito to have his slogan, which in English is translated as "What is yours, we'll leave alone, but we will fight to keep what is ours."

 Just inside the gates is a cool old clock tower.
 And a small pyramid, which is where people who had been bad would have been tied up to to be punished. 
Like many medieval cities, Kotor is a maze of winding alleys.  

The main site in Kotor are the walls that stretch up into the hillsides behind the Cathedral of Saint Tryphon a la the Great Wall of China. 










 



 We had lunch in the square in front of the church at a quiet pizzaria, and besides the great pizza and








and some great Montenegrin wine, I had the view of the church and hillside above.  Amazing.










After lunch I went inside the church.  It is an amazing blend of gothic and moorish architectural styles, and you can easily see the mixing of Western and Eastern aesthetics.


Upstairs you can see the remains of Saint Tryphon, the protector of Kotor, whose bones are encased inside a silver casket and  head inside a gold chalice.  Strange, but true.


I also poked my head inside a Serbian Orthodox church, which also felt very moorish, blending Eastern and Western design elements.

Kotor is a wonderfully picturesque town, and around every corner I found interesting things of which I wanted to take pictures.  Even the mundane things seemed exotic and foreign in a city with this much past.


It is clear that buildings have come and gone, and been evolved into new structures. 
















For the drive back to Dubrovnik, we elected to take the ferry back across the inland sea and avoid driving all the way back around it.  This saved us some time, and was a fun way to get back as well.



Unfortunately, Tony got a little seasick. . .

 We made it back to Dubrovnik in time to watch the sun set over the Adriatic one last time. 
That evening, we had a wonderful steak and terrific bottle of Dingac wine to soften the blow that our wonderful Adriatic vacation was coming to an end. 

From our seat in the plane, we got one last aerial view of Dubrovnik with its orange terracotta roofs and its wall. 

I'll be remembering this trip for a long time.  And perhaps someday, I'll get the opportunity to return.